Big Bend Ranch State Park, Texas November 8th

 Ray got up very early this morning (3 am) trying to get a good picture of the Lunar Eclipse. We had some clouds come in so he only managed one clear shot when the clouds decided to part.

He managed to come back to bed and grab a couple more hours of sleep. 

Today's drive is down along the Rio Grande River in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Down FM 170 (Farm road 170) aka River Road aka Texas Mountain Drive. We fueled the car up first in town. This guy sure looks like the cowboy with a huge mustache you see in movies. lol

We headed down FM 170 past Terlingua Ghost Town towards Big Bend Ranch State Park. What a drive, so picturesque. It's extremely windy and up and down. Would not want to take our MH down that road. There were dips everywhere to handle run off in the rainy season so a very "humpy" road. They apparently experienced terrible flooding at the end of August this year and it took out 2 bridges that are still being repaired. For now only single lane with traffic lights to tell you when to go across. Ray hopped in and out of the car like a crazy man for his pictures. lol So much to see and take a picture of. It's even hotter today, the car temp gauge at one point said 90F. Nice to do a bit of walking and then back into the car to cool off.

We passed through the little town of Lajitas where the entrance and visitor centre to the park is. Cute little town high up on the bank of the huge wash.

Our first stop is at the Contrabando Movie Set. There's actually a crew there taking pictures of young models in western clothes while we were there. A lovely setting but OMG the gnats were terrible.

Here is me looking at you looking at me! lol

There were flowers sprouting out everywhere, including the creosote bushes.

Colorado Canyon

There were tons of places along the road with water access spots and campsites for river runners.

We were lucky to be able to see a bunch of them.

Tipi Picnic Area

We carried on up "the big hill" and down the other side.

Next up the "Hoodoos" We decided not to hike down as we've seen better examples of this on other travels and we still had a long day ahead of us. On the way back we even saw a tour bus stop here.

Here is a short video I took with my phone.

Once we reached the end of the park we decided to continue on driving the 20 miles into the little town of Presidio for lunch. A very small town on the Rio Grande with Mexico on the other side. Not many choices to have lunch, but we found a tiny place quite busy (a good indication) so that's where we stopped. 

Ray took a picture of the church across from us while we were waiting for our lunch.

Back on the road home we stopped at the Fort Leaton Historic Site, where you also can buy your State Park Pass for Big Bend Ranch SP. We already purchased an annual Texas SP Pass, but apparently you have to print a day permit on line to post in your vehicle or stop at the state park office before you enter the park.. They gave me one there to stick in our window.

This is an unexpected adventure today. We wandered around there for almost an hour.

Fort Leaton History:

THE EARLY DAYS The story of Fort Leaton begins in Chihuahua City,  Mexico. There, Juana Pedrasa met Ben Leaton sometime between 1833 and 1840. In 1848 the couple and their three children moved to the La Junta District on the  Rio Grande, where Pedrasa owned land. They purchased additional acreage and fortified existing adobe structures into the square-shaped compound known today as  Fort Leaton, which served as a home, trading post on the Chihuahua Trail, and private fortification. The Leaton family and their visitors—explorers, soldiers, traders, freighters, native Americans and Anglo settlers alike— sought protection here against Native American raids and attacks by borderland outlaws.   A handful of journal entries provide a glimpse of life at Fort Leaton in its early days. In 1848, 70 men led  by John Coffee Hays traveled from San Antonio to the  Big Bend area on a mapping expedition. Today that trip would take about seven hours, but in 1848 it took two months! Imagine how welcome the relative safety and comfort of Fort Leaton must have seemed after such an arduous journey. The expedition purchased horses, mules and other supplies at the fort.

The following year, Lt. William H.C. Whiting and party arrived at Fort Leaton while exploring a military route between  San Antonio and Santa Fe. By this time Leaton owned two slaves, employed eight to 10 workers and maintained extensive farming operations. Whiting referred to the fort as “one of the most important places on the Rio Grande” due to its position as the lone defensive outpost and supply station along a 450-mile stretch of river. He also commented on the exorbitant prices being charged. Although Leaton was widely known as a  scoundrel, Whiting praised his hospitality. Leaton treated the party to an enormous meal including stewed chicken with  chilies, roasted turkey, tortillas, frijoles, coffee and homemade peach brandy.  

MURDER AND MAYHEM The story of Fort Leaton soon took a series of violent turns.  Following Ben Leaton’s death in 1851, Juana Pedrasa married Edward Hall and continued the fort’s operation as a trading post, albeit unsuccessfully. Fort Leaton passed to John Burgess during foreclosure proceedings in 1862, but the Halls refused  to leave. Ten years later an angry and frustrated Burgess was indicted for Hall’s murder. Despite a second slaying—this time of Burgess by a vengeful William Leaton—the family continued the trading business through 1884. The Burgesses went on to occupy the deteriorating structure until about 1927. Following Fort Leaton’s acquisition by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department in 1967, restoration work was completed in 1978.

It's an extremely interesting walking around. A lot of the rooms are refurbished with period pieces to give you an idea of what it was like back then. A bunch of other rooms were left as is to retain their history. The fort is built from straw and mud and still stands today. Their wooden doors and windows are magnificent.

Courtyard

Entry to the office, museum and gift shop.

Once we were "signed in" we headed back out with the site map in hand.

Blacksmith Shop

The picture below shows a large wooden cart called a Carretas. They were first brought to the USA by the Spanish in 1590. The wheel on this replica is 6 feet but they had some with wheels of 9 feet in diameter and you would need 12 oxen to pull it. The Carretas hauled goods on the Chihuahua Trail which connected San Antonio Texas with Chihuahua, Mexico and passed near Fort Leaton. One of the most common goods hauled was silver bullion mined in Mexico.

The horse corrals.

The Courtyard

The Dining room.

The Family Parlor

The Formal Parlor

The kitchen

The Nursery

Servants Quarters

Trading Office

Back in the car again heading back. Only a few stops for pictures on the return. Here is a cable car to Mexico! That goes into a cave. There is a sign on this side that says "Property of the US Government". I wonder what they use this for?

Ray took so many pics coming down the road before, so the drive went faster until ...... look more hoodoos! I drove down a wash and look what we found. Another amazing site.

Someone's old house even with a fireplace and chimney inside.

Looking up the arroyo

That was the last stop so onward we went. The drive from Presidio to Terlingua one way is about 95 minutes without stopping ... we left at 9:15 and did not return until 4:15. We stopped at the liquor store for Ray to pick up some more non-alcoholic beer (which so far is hard to find down anywhere down here). They certainly dressed up the place. lol  Ray got talking with the proprietors and the older gentleman attended the Qualicum Beach Boys School way back when.

Another great day. Very hot when we got back so we stayed inside with the A/C.